Living Dublin

Grafton Street, Dublin

Where is it?

Grafton Street joins Trinity College and St Stephens Green. People refer to the "top" and the "bottom" of Grafton St, which to this day still confuses me but, if I've got it right, the bottom actually extend beyond the pedestrian street, so that Number 1 Grafton St is the residence of the Provost of Trinity College, surely the most select address in Dublin.

What's it about?

Shopping. But much more than that. Long before the street was pedestrianised in the 1970s Noel Purcell sang "Grafton Street's a wonderland with magic in the air . . .".

Grafton Street is quite short. It will take you no more than five minutes to walk it. But a Dubliner will allow at least a half hour, particularly on a Saturday afternoon and if you're young, because this is where everyone comes to browse the shops, from HMV to Brown Thomas, or just to hang around and watch the many buskers or meet and chat with friends before slipping off for a coffee or a pint.

Grafton Street contains some of Dublin's most select shops, in particular the afore-mentioned BT, formerly Switzers. In the past, a visit to Switzers' window display was an essential part of Christmas for every Dublin child and BT have kept on this fine tradition. Across the road, the building formerly occupied by BT (you work it out!) is now Marks & Spencers' flagship location in Ireland. Be aware that the streets around Grafton Street continue the theme and the shopaholic will want to visit amongst others The Powerscourt Centre, The Westbury Mall and the Stephens Green Centre.

For record hunters, HMV holds pride of place on the street itself, in a building once occupied by Woolworth's, but Tower Records are just off the street on Wicklow Street, and Wicklow Street also contains two second-hand vinyl stores which are a collector's paradise. Both are well hidden, but I'll leave you to find them for yourself.

Book Lovers will want to try The Dublin Bookshop and Hughes & Hughes in the Stephens Green Centre. But running parallel to Grafton Street is Dawson Street, where the three biggest and best bookshops in Dublin, Hodges Figgis, Easons and Waterstones, are within 50m of each other. Hodges Figgis has a bargain basement which can turn up many treasures. For the serious collector, Cathach Books on Duke Street is a well stocked antiquarian bookshop.

Note that most of the shops on and around Grafton Street open late on Thursdays.

What's there to do/see?

Shop. And then relax over a meal or a pint. Ever since Joyce dubbed it "The Lofty Clattery Café", Bewley's Oriental Café has been a must for tourists, as it has long been a meeting place for Dubliners of every kind. Elsewhere in the area every kind of cuisine imaginable is available, at every kind of price. For value at lunchtime, try the pubs.

But there are no pubs on Grafton Street, in deference to some ancient planning law. Instead the surrounding streets contain some of Dublin's most famous traditional pubs, many steeped in literary and other history, as well as the best of the newcomers. In the former category there is McDaids, Davy Byrnes, The Bailey, The International, The Old Stand, Bruxelles; in the latter Café en Seine, Samsara, Ron Blacks, The Thing Mote, Judge Roy Beans, Break for the Border and Aka, amongst others. One gem not well known is The Dawson Lounge, Dublin's smallest pub. When I say small, think bedsit, and they still manage to squeeze in a jazz band on Tuesday nights!

For the sightseer, Grafton Street is close to Dáil Éireann, the Irish houses of Parliament, The National Museum, The National Library, the Dublin Civic Museum, Dublin's Mansion House and Trinity College. Or take a stroll around St Stephens Green. As with anywhere in Dublin, all the other major attractions are a 15-20 minute walk away.

Where to stay

Among the finest hotels in the area are the Fitwilliam and the Shelbourne on Stephens Green, Buswells, Brooks and The Westbury. Good three star accommodation can be found in The Grafton Capital and The Mercer, amongst others.

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