Living Dublin

Merrion Square, Dublin

Where is it?

Merrion Square itself lies to the south east of Dublin city centre, at the back of Trinity College and Leinster House, the home of the Irish parliament. Leinster House was designed to have two fronts - a "town" front facing onto Kildare Street and a "country house" front, which dominates the west side of the square. For the purposes of this guide, we'll consider the Merrion Square area to extend to the Grand Canal, about a quarter of a mile or 500m to the south, taking in Upper and Lower Mount Street, and over to Merrion Row and Baggot Street from where the Georgian "Golden Mile" continues to Fitwilliam Square and Leeson Street.

What's it about?

Culture. Architecture. Merrion Square was laid out between 1762 and 1764 and three sides of it remain the finest example of Georgian Architecture under Dublin's Wide Streets Commission established in 1787, the fourth side being occupied by Leinster House.

Up until about 50 years ago, Merrion Square was largely residential; today it is mostly offices, part of the business area of Dublin 2. In the past, though, Oscar Wilde's parents lived in Number 1, now the American college, and William Butler Yeats lived in Nos. 52 and 82. Other famous residents include Sheridan Le Fanu (No. 70) and Daniel O'Connell (No. 58). Today the square houses The Royal Institute of Architects of Ireland (RIAI), the Football Association of Ireland (FAI), The National University (NUI) and the Royal Society of Antiquarians of Ireland, as well as the Dublin Institute for Advanced Studies, where Erwin Schrödinger worked from 1939 to 1956.

Within the boundaries of the Georgian doorways and their fanlights lies the square itself. Originally a private square for residents, it was purchased by the Catholic Church as a possible site for Dublin's first catholic cathedral, yet to be built. Instead, in 1974 Archbishop Dermot Ryan donated the square to the corporation, and today the exquisitely manicured gardens are named in his honour. At lunchtimes office workers stroll or bask in the sunshine there, or enjoy the free concerts in summer.

What's there to do/see?

Just to walk around Merrion Square is to immerse oneself in Dublin's history. Check out the brass plaques on the doorways for the current occupants and the larger ones further up on the facades for those who have left us. Admire the brightly painted doors and their fanlights.

Take a walk through the square itself. Enjoy the many sculptures. (Hint: walk around the back of them; many are inscribed on the reverse to tell you what they are about.) Two in particular - the Oscar Wilde garden opposite the home of his parents William and Speranza in the north-west corner and the jester's chair dedicated to Dermot Morgan (the star of the ITV series "Father Ted") - serve to bookend the recent history of Irish humour.

Crossing Upper Mount Street, glance down at St Stephens Church. Known locally as The Peppercannister, it was inspired by Sir Christopher Wren's Churches in London.

On the corner of Fitzwilliam Street and Mount Street you'll find Number 29. Built in 1794, this former home of a wine merchant's widow has been lovingly restored in every detail to depict a middle class Georgian household. Maintained by the National Museum, No. 29 is well worth a visit.

On the west side of Merrion Square, Leinster House is flanked by the National Gallery of Art and the National History Museum. Alongside the latter are Government Buildings, the magnificently restored offices of the Taoiseach (Prime Minister) and government. They are open to the public on Saturdays.

Opposite Government Buildings, No. 24 Merrion Street is the birthplace of Arthur Wellesley, Duke of Wellington. Now surely you've heard of him!

Where to stay

Many of Dublin's best hotels lie in the area around Merrion Square. O'Callaghan Hotels Group run three of them within a few metres of each other - the Mont Clare Hotel, The Alexander and The Davenport - crossing a range of budgets.

The Merrion Hotel across from Government Buildings in Merrion Street is believed by many to be the best 5 star hotel in Dublin, while cheap accommodation may be found in the Schoolhouse Hotel or the Mespil Hotel, both on the canal. There are also a couple of smaller hotels on Baggot Street.

© Living Dublin 2003-2005