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St Stephens Green, Dublin

Where is it?

At the top of Grafton Street to the south and with the main arteries of Harcourt Street, Leeson Street and Baggot Street converging on its corners. We've included the business district bounded by these three in the general area.

What's it about?

The earliest of the eighteenth century Dublin squares, St Stephens Green consists of 22 acres of beautifully laid out and manicured parkland. In the hearts of southside Dubliners however, it is a familiar and much-loved back garden. Lunchtimes in summer will see every blade of grass covered by students and workers spawling and munching sandwiches and generations of children have refused to tolerate a shopping trip to town without the relief of a visit to "The Green" to feed the ducks and play on the swings.

When Stephens Green was aid out, the focus of the city was on the north side, and the hoi polloi occupied stately residences on the street around and to the north of what is now O'Connell Street. Many of the buildings overlooking the Green were originally considered country homes by their owners. It wasn't until the 1st Duke of Leinster built an extravagant mansion for himself on nearby Kildare Street and famously declared "Where I go, people will follow." that the southside began its reign as the desirable residential area in the city, proving the good Duke right. Leinster House is now the home of the Irish Parliament.

Unfortunately many of the original buildings on the Green no longer exist, although it should be noted that it never had the planned coherence of later Georgian squares such as Merrion Square and Fitzwilliam Square nearby. Many fine buildings still exist though, such as Newman House, built by Buck Whaley and later the home of the Catholic University (now University College Dublin and moved to the suburbs), Iveagh House (now the Department of Foreign Affairs) and the later buildings of the Stephens Green Club and The Shelbourne Hotel.

What's there to do/see?

If the weather's fine, take a stroll round the Green itself: feed the ducks, watch the people and have a look at the many sculptures and monuments dotted around.

Better still, find the Iveagh Gardens, a little known urban idyll which can be accessed from an entrance at the back of the National Concert Hall. Attend a concert in the Concert Hall if you can. Built to house the Great Exhibition a hundred years ago, this magnificent building was part of the university before being converted to its current use in the late 1970s. Take note of the insignificant-looking red brick building beside it. The subject of a long-running preservation battle, this building is actually one of the few original Real Tennis courts in the world, and was the venue for the World Championship in 1890.

Newman House, at 85-86 St Stephens Green, has been lovingly restored and is well worth a visit, particularly for its fine stucco work, Elsewhere, this area abounds with the best of Dublin's Georgian architecture. Though mostly converted to offices, much of the streetscape has been preserved, especially around Fitzwilliam Street and Merrion Square.

In Harcourt Street and Leeson Street many of the buildings now serve as hotels and in the basements you'll find Dublin's "Strip", a chain of thriving nightclubs (especially at weekends). Unlike the modern megaplexes that are the club scene elsewhere in the city, these clubs are generally small, intimate (and often crowded), often serving only wine and playing music that attracts an older and more diverse crowd.

For the sightseer, the Mansion House, The National Museum, The National Library and Leinster House are all nearby and the best of shopping is available in Grafton Street.

Where to stay

There are some excellent hotels on St Stephens Green, including the landmark Shelbourne, the Fitzwilliam, the Stephens Green Hotel, Brownes Brasserie & Townhouse and The Conrad. Stauntons on the Green provides good three star accommodation, as does the Harcourt Hotel and many others on Harcourt Street and Leeson Street. Check out the Camden Court too, just around the corner at the far end of Harcourt Street.