Living Dublin

Temple Bar, Dublin

Where is it?

Temple Bar itself is the central street of an area that stretches from O'Connell Bridge and Westmoreland Street westward to Christchurch Cathedral, bounded on the south and north by Dame Street and the river.

What's it about?

Fun, shops, culture, pubs (lots), restaurants (even more) and, um, tourists. Temple Bar is Dublin's self-designated Cultural Quarter, consciously developed since 1991 out of a rambling collection of crumbling warehouses and derelict buildings which occupied what had once been the heart of mediaeval Dublin.

Originally, at the end of the 1980s, Temple Bar was earmarked for demolition and clearance to make way for a new National Bus Station. But then somebody realised that despite (and because of ) its run down state it had become a home for artists' studios, alternative boutiques, record shops and second-hand and specialist bookstores. This development echoed nicely the rich cultural history of the place, for it was here that Ireland's first theatre, The Smock Alley Theatre, opened in 1662 and here, in the Musick Hall on Fishamble Street, that George Frederic Handel conducted the first ever performance of his Messiah.

Instead, an ambitious project was put in place to renovate and rejuvenate the whole area in keeping with its culture and history and creating in the process what became known as "Dublin's Left Bank". The success of this project, which still continues today under the management of a state-funded company, Temple Bar Properties, has been questioned by some, particularly those who believe that it places an over-emphasis on the more hedonistic aspects of life, but there is no doubt that the thriving buzz of the place, where some of the best of modern Irish architecture combines seamlessly with lovingly-restored old buildings and cobbled streets, is unrecognisable from that used to depict 19th century Boston in the 1991 film Far and Away.

What's there to do/see?

Pick a fine day, or better still a fine evening, and just stroll around and enjoy the cosmopolitan buzz of the place. Watch and listen to the many buskers, but watch out for the smart chappie in Temple Bar Square, who runs a fine patter in dry wit, but mostly at the expense of passers-by who come within his range.

In the evening, Temple Bar is all about eating and drinking and having fun. But don't miss out on the cultural experience.

In the daylight, enjoy the architecture - it really is an excellent blend of the old, the new, and the renovated. Visit the Irish Film Centre, converted from an old Quaker meeting house, and take in an arthouse movie. near it, The Ark children's theatre does fabulous and imaginative performances for kids in a wonderful setting. If you're travelling en famille, make that a must.

Meeting House Square behind the Ark leads you to the Gallery of Photography and the National Photographic Archives, both well worth a visit. Check the Temple Bar Gallery for exhibitions and The Music Centre for gigs - its range is wider than the teenage Goth population in the bar would imply.

The Project established itself as Dublin's most avant-garde theatre company. It's now re-housed in a new building on the original site. Among those who built their early reputations at The Project are Jim Sheridan, oscar-winning director of My Left Foot and In America, Liam Neeson and Gabriel Byrne.

For cultural history, go and see Isolde's Tower, not the pub of the same name but the nearby remains of an ancient tower that was once part of the old city walls, and pay a visit to Dublinia, a multimedia exhibition of mediaeval Dublin that finishes with one of the most striking views in the city.

Where to stay

There's a wealth of places to stay in Temple Bar, and a full range of options too. At the top end of the spectrum, The Clarence, The Morgan and The Morrison across the river are all high-calibre boutique hotels. Blooms, The Temple Bar Hotel, The Paramount, The Parliament and the nearby Ormond Quay Hotel all offer mid-range three star accommodation and comfort.

For those on a lower budget, try The Bridge House guest house on Parliament Street or one of the many good hostels around, such as Barnacles.

For more information on the Temple Bar area, visit the Temple Bar web site at www.temple-bar.ie.

© Living Dublin 2003-2005